After a week in and around the Kathmandu Valley, it was time to get lost in nature. A 10-day rafting trip in the “wild west” of Nepal seemed like just the thing. This region had been previously closed off because it was under Maoist control. Now it’s open again. To this day, most areas are difficult to reach and have no tourist amenities.

Our journey began with a two day bus ride across the country, through steep valleys, fertile plains, villages and finally onto a narrow muddy trail that took us deep into the mountains. The highlight of the road trip was riding on the roof of the bus during the cool mornings and balmy evenings, sun on my face, wind whipping through my hair… Ahhh, pure joy.

On the first day, I was feeling pretty intrepid until we were passed by a bus with people heaped on top, clinging to the roof rack, all smiling and yelling “Hello!” They were very entertained and looked a bit perplexed that we “chose” to sit on top when there were many empty seats down below. Nevertheless, I felt welcome.

On the evening of the second day we arrived at our put in point and set up camp. The next morning, as we organized our gear, hundreds of local villagers came down to watch the beginning of our expedition. For the first time, I got a real sense of what it must be like to be a villager surrounded by a western tour group, all taking pictures while they wash their clothes in the river.
It was a great role reversal. However, I think we were feeling a bit claustrophobic. I decided to experiment with a little “child crowd control.” Yelling “photos,” I pulled my camera out and started running down the beach away from our camp.

It worked! And soon I had a long string of almost a hundred children chasing me down the river. It was quite a scene. One by one they ran out of steam and made their way back to our camp, lured by the sight of our breakfast spread. Thinking that most kids just need to know what their limits are, (thanks Mom) I pulled out a stick and drew a big circle around the group and motioned for them to stay inside the line. I turned it into a game, and to my total surprise, it worked! We were able to eat our meal in relative peace! Child Psychology 101.
Once out on the river, minutes turned into hours and hours into days as we lost ourselves in the rich beauty of the jungle. At the risk of sounding cliche, this was my experience… beautiful timelessness.

Each morning we woke up to cool fog rolling down over the mountains, which soon cleared to reveal perfect blue skies. 10 days of perfect weather and No Bugs! I couldn’t believe it! No bugs… not even a mosquito, in the middle of the wilderness! Amazing. A dream come true. I still can’t figure it out.
After gorging ourselves on breakfast each day, we would head out to brave a new section of rapids and soak up another full day of amazing scenery; lush green mountains, steep cliffs, tiny villages perched on the river’s edge, water buffaloes, smiling villagers and not a single sign of modern life or other tourists.
On the river, we scouted out huge class four and five rapids with the help of our very skilled Welch safety kayak team. We ran most of them, went around others and all three boats managed to flip on one day or another. I was launched out of my boat twice to swim the rapids, a pretty exhilarating experience to say the least. Fortunately, the river crocodiles, don’t like fast water and we didn’t see them until the last day after our take out point.

Each night we made camp on pristine sand beaches, sat around the campfire, shared stories, sometimes just sat silently for hours watching the shooting stars, listening to the river and entertaining curious villagers that showed up to hang by the fire. Jesus, our resident wild man entertainer from Spain made sure that we never passed a dull moment. On one of my favorite nights, our guide Mahindra bought two chickens for dinner from local villagers. He and I hiked up into the village together, he picked out the roosters he wanted and then he looked at me and said, “Jesse we must catch.” Within seconds, a group of villagers surrounded our chickens in a tight circle. The first one made a break for it and he went straight for the weak point in our circle, me. He knew a rookie when he saw one. After sprinting wildly all over the village, around houses, over rice patties and finally into a thick bush, we caught our dinner. I couldn’t help but think that there would likely either be a lot of vegetarians or at least a lot less obesity in the world if we all had to chase down our dinner.

In between the excitement of the rapids there was also plenty of downtime on the beach and on long flat sections of the river. I had a consistent reocurring feeling that there was almost too much natural beauty for me soak up during our relatively short visit. I wanted to visit every tiny village we passed, I wanted to explore every empty beach and swim in the hundreds of water falls we floated past along the way. I found myself constantly amazed by how completely untouched this little corner of the world was by modern influences.

Often we were stopped by inquisitive local farmers and fisherman, who wanted to know all about where we were from and about our experience in their country. They brought us fish, offered up some of their local brew and were always ready to share a laugh. (Or championship staring contest.)

In the very near future, this river may be dammed for hydroelectric power. Roads will be put in and power brought to the villages. Things will change, the people will change and landscape forever altered. I feel very privileged to have been able to experience the raw beauty and simplicity of life along the Karnali River as it still exists today.

For the last ten days, I have been very present; Not living in the future or the past, but totally engulfed by the natural power of the experience. I also feel immensely privileged to live in a country with so much opportunity. Being here, right now, I am again overwhelmed by the huge disparity of personal opportunity in the world. I feel very privileged and I am forever grateful for this journey.

In Love and Service,
Jesse Gros